Some of my old links and galleries aren’t showing up. Here are a few pictures of my M3 from 2011 with modified Pontiac TA GTA wheels. So far, I’ve restored a full set-in silver. Next will be a full set in gold, then maybe another set in dark gray or black. I’ve hoarded a few sets for these projects. The stock gold set are mounted on 215 series rubber, while the restored silver set are on 205 series.
On the way home two weeks ago the M started to act up. First, it started overheating. Then odd noises from the driveline. The engine was vibrating at higher rpms and clanged when started and stopped. The overheating issue was determined to be a static fan caused by a shifted fan shroud. Odd, but I was more worried about the driveline issues. I preliminarily diagnosed it to be a bad clutch or transmission. Fast forward to the weekend. Up on the ramps, a quick look at the underbelly resulted in the real cause…a collapsed right side motor mount. The shifted engine caused all of the noises and vibrations. Even the overheating when the fan hit the shroud and got stuck. So why did this happen? My car had the heat shield missing that protects the mount from header heat. It didn’t have a chance. I replaced the Ireland race pieces with a spare 740 set. Pics say 1000 words.
Part II of my everyday series of videos chronicling upgrades and the everyday use of my M3.
This video illustrates the everyday tractability of the ss91 Iigo chip and 276/264 cams. Nice gain in torque between 3000 and 6000 rpm. Little bump in top end. Great idle too. Will probably gain up top with an afm delete or standalone; and acquiring a real 276 cam, not just a regrind (more lift).
I feel I have won the battle of my leaky S14. 1-Up! It must be said the problem initiated when the donor engine was swapped. I had all of the oil pan and timing cover surfaces re-sealed while the engine was out. Unfortunately I used Hylomar, a product not familiar to me, but supposedly very good. Well, it didn’t work well for me. In all honesty, it’s probably user error. Oil was seeping out of every surface, or it seemed. Several two-inch puddles were left every time I parked. This time around I used something else, something I’m used to – regular silicone gasket maker (Hondabond HT) First, some basic steps in re-sealing the front timing cover and both oil pans without having to remove the head:
1. Pre-soak crank nut with penetrating fluid overnight. I used PB Blaster.
2. Drain oil and coolant
3. Disconnect and remove alternator, AFM/Airbox assembly, and hoses attached to the front timing cover. Also remove lower air valance.
4. Removing the water pump is optional. I didn’t remove it from the timing cover.
5. Lock the flywheel with a specialty tool, or jam a large screwdriver in the driver side bellhousing view port. I do the latter, works every time.
6. Using a powerful 1/2″ impact gun or 3/4″ – 1″ breaker bar with a 36 mm socket, remove the crank nut (right thread). FYI, I don’t like using the breaker bar method. IMO, puts a lot of stress on parts. Probably just me. If the nut doesn’t want to break loose, use a propane torch to carefully heat up the nut. Do this slowly and do not heat the pulley! The crank nut should now come loose. I used a 1/2″ air impact gun (~400 ft-lbs) from Harbor Freight. The nut broke loose after 5 seconds of full power.
7. Remove flywheel inspection cover, oil pump, and both oil pans. I only had to remove the driver side sway bar links to remove inspection cover. Upper oil pan slides out easily. Keep note of all bolts.
8. Clean all flange surfaces. This is where a can of Goof-Off really works nicely. It may seem like a docile home product, but it’s a super solvent. Use in a well ventilated area only! Spray it on the oil pan flanges and it’ll easily remove old grime, grease, and remnant sealer. Do the same for the block flanges. Use a Scotch pad if necessary. Finish with a wipe of brake cleaner.
9. Use your preferred sealant. I used Hondabond HT, it’s some of the best sealing stuff around. Only need to place it on one side, I opted for the cover and pan side for ease. Re-installation order is timing cover, upper pan, then lower pan. Place a 4-5 mm bead all the way around the cover/pan flange then smear it flat with your finger. The entire surface should be covered with a thin coat of sealant (no more than 1 mm). Also place a small bead in the upper timing corner where the block, head, and timing cover meet. This is a known leak zone. Attach the cover/pan to the other mating surface after one minute (for Hondabond). Do this for all then torque down normally.
10. Reattach all ancillaries and add fluids
11. Hondabond hardens after 3 hrs, and fully cures in 3 days.
12. Check for leaks
I have no leaks after a few days of driving. The dreaded upper timing case area is dry and everything has a nice gray bead. Now time to pressure wash my driveway. Arrg.
Soooo…it was a busy weekend. I decided to tackle two upgrades I’ve been waiting to do for 2 years. Last week I recieved my IIGO chip from Luis Marques. What a great chip! Pulls stronger and idles better. The AFR’s are right on target. Second, I installed my 276 regrind in the intake and moved the 264 to the exhaust side. The cam came in a 284/276 set – regrinds from stock 248s. Didn’t want to do the 284 just yet because of PV clearance and lash issues, so I started with the 276. I installed both at stock timing. Checked the PV clearance just by pushing on the buckets until the valve touches the piston. On my visual check, I had about 2 mm’s. This makes sense as they’re regrinds without additional lift. …maybe I can add that 284 after all.
That said, this combo really woke up the S14. Much more punchy in the 3000-5000…and a good bump above that. I’ll have a video up this week.
So far, my upgrades are:
– Lightened stock flywheel
– Evo Airbox
– IIGO chip
– 276 regrind on intake
– Evo II cam on exhaust
– 3″ exhaust
– Burns stainless Y-pipe (2 3/8″ throat to 3″ out)
– PLX Devices WB02 kit with narrow band output to DME
– K&N filter
Soon to be done:
– CR transmission
– 2.64 diff
– shim under buckets
– HD valve train
– MAF kit
