Soooo…it was a busy weekend. I decided to tackle two upgrades I’ve been waiting to do for 2 years. Last week I recieved my IIGO chip from Luis Marques. What a great chip! Pulls stronger and idles better. The AFR’s are right on target. Second, I installed my 276 regrind in the intake and moved the 264 to the exhaust side. The cam came in a 284/276 set – regrinds from stock 248s. Didn’t want to do the 284 just yet because of PV clearance and lash issues, so I started with the 276. I installed both at stock timing. Checked the PV clearance just by pushing on the buckets until the valve touches the piston. On my visual check, I had about 2 mm’s. This makes sense as they’re regrinds without additional lift. …maybe I can add that 284 after all.
That said, this combo really woke up the S14. Much more punchy in the 3000-5000…and a good bump above that. I’ll have a video up this week.
So far, my upgrades are:
- Lightened stock flywheel
- Evo Airbox
- IIGO chip
- 276 regrind on intake
- Evo II cam on exhaust
- 3″ exhaust
- Burns stainless Y-pipe (2 3/8″ throat to 3″ out)
- PLX Devices WB02 kit with narrow band output to DME
- K&N filter
Soon to be done:
- CR transmission
- 2.64 diff
- shim under buckets
- HD valve train
- MAF kit
Today I got around to resuming the head removal. I didn’t have much left so it went pretty quick. The intake and exhaust manifolds were left on for ease…or lazyness. Once the head was off I didn’t find anything catastrophic, although the head gasket was pretty beat. No cracks that I can see. I checked the head surface with a steel straightedge – good there too. The coolant holes on the gasket seemed cruddy and rusty. I assume there wasn’t a good seal between cylinders 2/3 and the oil/coolant passages. I noticed while removing the head bolts that the bottom (exhaust side) ones seamed to come off easier. The top ones came off with a good snap – the bottom ones with a mild snap. Maybe the bolts just needed tightening? Also, 3 of the exhaust side bolts were corroded with what almost looks like carbon deposits (pics soon). I’m not 100% sure what went wrong. I’ve got a new BMW head gasket going in on Saturday. Hopefully it’s just a leaky gasket. No mulah to spend on a rebuild right now.
Last night I began the lengthy, for an amateur, process of removing the head. The only other head I’ve removed was from my old M30 528i. This is much different – there are so many more things to unscrew. Good thing I like doing this sort of stuff! Removing the valve cover and cams, this is what I saw…
Proof positive. Definate coolant and oil mixing…and not from condensation. These photos show triple banding of clean oil, milky oil, and dark oil. The previous owner probably used non-synthetic oil at long intervals, hence the dark staining. Now its running Mobil-1. The first oil change was even run with some Sea Foam. It’s very obvious the extra detergency of the oil coupled with Sea Foam is cleaning out the crud.
A few months ago I replaced my tired old original engine with a “better” used motor…or so I thought. Everything went well, she purred like a kitten. Fast forward a few weeks. I noticed my coolant level would always be lower than the last time checked. A faint smell of coolant upon startup also crept in. To be honest I turned a blind eye. I should mention that the car doesnt’ get driven much…3-4 times a month, max. About a month ago I pulled the dipstick for a level check. What do I see? Streaks of milky oil. Nooooooo. I researched relentlessly. Maybe it was condensation? Yea, thats it! Did I mention the car doesn’t get driven much? Short intermittent drives=condensation. So off to change the oil I go. The oil was dirty because of Sea Foam but no signs of moisture. For the heck of it, I checked the compression. 195, 205, 195, 200. Not too shabby. I start driving the M very optimistically long and hard.
I crack open the dipstick a week later. Streaky again. Allrighty, time to get to the bottom of this. I’m still thinking it’s condensation, but need to ease my mind. Look closely at the image below…faint milky streaks.
Here’s my plan. If it’s the head gasket, it must be associated with the coolant loss. Cylinder pressure could be sneaking into the cooling system. At best, through a busted head gasket, at worst a warped or cracked head. I’ll unplug the coil and fuel pump relay and turn over the engine. If there’s a leak, I should hear a burble in the expansion tank.
The engine is stone cold. First, I’ll crank without the fuel relay and the coolant cap on. Done. To my surprise, there’s pressure release as the cap comes off. Strike one. Crank with the cap off – burble burble. Strike two. Maybe it’s just air in the system? Finally, with fuel relay in and cap on. Again, pressure release while removing cap, then…a quick whiff in the expansion tank. Gas odor. Steeeerike three! On to the head extraction.
Update: I had left the oxygen sensor socket on the sensor.
I’ve developed an annoying rattle. I only hear it when accelerating, especially from a stop. It’s high pitched and metallic sounding. Very faint though. Seems to be getting louder. Clutch? Tranny? Loose bolt?
Anyone?
Grr
Oh well, it gives me the opportunity to assess my oil leak.
The most significant thing I’ve done since the last tech post is swapping out the tired S14 for…a less tired S14. I’m pretty proud of it too. I did it all myself and took only 3 weekends. No more smokey, rattly, leaky engine. Ok I must confess, it leaks a little. I probably need to tighten a few oil pan bolts. Rod bearings were replaced along with a new oem water and oil pump. She definitely purrs nicely with the Evo 2 cam. Pics forthcoming.
Phase 2 to do list:
Upgrade clutch, thinking of an OS Giken
Swap for dogleg box
Swap rear end
Install GE coilovers and IE camber plates
Delete cooling fan
This following forum was created many years ago, but never published. I think its time to bring out of the backburner. I know there are a couple of e30 m3 sites – and they have been invaluable repositories of information. For that, I respect them very much. I’d like to bring about a forum for new generation of e30 m3 owners, or prospective owners. It doesn’t matter if you’ve got an s14 or whether its street or track only. All e30 m3′s welcome. Also, the use of a modern forum format is key in today’s mobile world. I want to make it as painless as possible to access the site from little screens. The Tapatalk app is also installed. If we grow, we’ll make it better.
It turns out the Kumho XS in 215/45/16 on my GTA wheels were rubbing the rear inner fender lips. I really didn’t want to have them rolled anymore…so I decided to get a slightly smaller tire – 205/45/16. All this means I need to get my coilovers for proper wheel gap, meaning lower! The tires are no frills all season performance Falken Ziex ZE-912′s. $350 mounted and balanced. No rubbing issues now.
If you’re in the LA area (SGV) the guys at Tires Central are great. Awesome prices and straight up service.
