Project wheels: codename GTA
May 7th, 2011 PierreI’m back after a looong hiatus. My kid is now one and a half years. I’ve been yearning to get back under the M. Lately I’ve been working on some project wheels. More soon.
I’m back after a looong hiatus. My kid is now one and a half years. I’ve been yearning to get back under the M. Lately I’ve been working on some project wheels. More soon.
Note: Â my camera was not able to fully capture the sound. Lower frequencies are truncated. Â Better recording this weekend.
Sounds pretty good. It should get a bit more mellow once I drive it around some. Â I’m going to keep the band clamps connecting the collector and cat, everything else will be welded.
UPDATE: Â View a newer video with better audio here.
I’m a cheap kind of E30 M3 owner. Kind of oxymoronish, but true. So when I set off to replace my clogged original exhaust, the prices of most pre-fabbed systems were pretty high. For example, using a VSR1 mid section and Stromung rear would be around $1,300. Add $100 for installation. This is a tried and tested combination that works great on the E30 m3. I also looked at “custom” stainless systems from Europe, about $700 but without a proper cat. Plus shipping would be mad!
Not finding a nice modest sporty exhaust, I went on to do my own for about $500. This is including 3″ mild steel mandrel bent tubing (16 gauge), a large polished 22″ Magnaflow muffler, 50-state legal catalytic converter, and band clamps. To my relief, it is possible. In states other than California, where  a “special” cat isn’t needed, subtract $100; or for a track car, where one isn’t needed all, subtract $200.
Now, I know 3″ is pretty radical for a stock 2.3 S14, Â but I’ll be building up a high tech lump in the near future. Â Might as well do some R&D now. Â Plus, I wanted it to fit my new Burn Stainless Y-pipe collector.
Parts List:
Magnaflow Polished 3″ in/out Muffler 5″ x 11″ x 22″ (part number 14589) – $124
Magnaflow “California) catalytic converter (part number 41409) – $200 eBay price
4 x 45° 3″ mandrel bent 16 gauge pipe (link) – 4 x $12.50 = $50
1 x 18° 3″ mandrel bent 16 gauge pipe (link) – $12.00
4′ 3″ mandrel bent 16 gauge pipe, straight (link) – 4 x $5.50/ft = $22
2 lap joint exhaust clamps (link) – 2 x $9.50 = $19.00
4 butt joint exhaust clamps (link) – 6 x $7.75 = $46.50
All the above comes out to be around $500 with shipping and taxes (much of it was non taxed and shipped free)
Part 2 coming next week…teaser picture below:
Crankshaft hub nuts are notoriously difficult to remove. I’ve heard stories of raging weekend battles between man, machine, and leverage. Everything from 3/4″ drive sockets, long trolley jack handles, various impact wrenches, and breaker bars all were mentioned at some point. I even heard of starting the car with a breaker bar and socket attached to break it loose! Nah, not for me. I’ve got a new son, plus I like my fenders.
Recently, I got an itch to open up the timing cover on my spare s14 to observe wear. The engine currently in the car is a little tired; so the spare is a viable option as an in-betweener. A quick reference shows the crank hub bolt should be torqued at 325 lbs/ft. Nothing a little leverage or impact can’t handle, you say. This value doesn’t take the years of heat cycling and microscopic corrosion between the nut and crank threads. Nonetheless I gave it a shot. Nada. No budging with a 1/2″ drive breaker bar…the only thing breaking was the bar! My impact gun didn’t work either. Â Plan B time.
So, I plotted my next move:
1. Splash on some PB blaster a week before work begins
2. Use a propane torch to mildly heat up the nut. Â Not any more than normal driving temperature. Â Used the torch on the nut for about 10 seconds or so, repeated once.
3. Â Set my little twin tank compressor to 100 psi
4. Use my Harbor Freight $80 “Earthquake” 1/2″ drive impact wrench…maximum torque (rated at 625 lbs/ft).
Result?
The bolt came off after a few seconds of gunning it.
Lesson? Don’t be afraid of the crank hub bolt! Â I know it looks easy with the engine removed, but the torch and impact gun can still be used with an installed engine. Â The fans and radiator may need to go, but it’ll be worth the effort.
With my first child coming, the M is on hiatus. I have a lot of parts that need installation. Maybe I’ll do a little this weekend. At least to not flat spot the tires.
I’m currently in the middle of the following projects:
– custom exhaust
– a/f ratio metering by a NGK afx system
– single fuel pump conversion (in-tank only)
– updated interior
– oil vapor pipe capped with K/N filter
– recently added a sparco strut brace
Posts and pictures forthcoming…
Looooong time since last post. Â Work’s been keeping me busy; and now with a pregnant wife…worse. Â This just means the time with the M is even better!
This morning I took out the M on a run with other s14’ers. Â The engine felt a little flat, like it has for a few weeks now. Â Nothing really new, now its more pronounced. Â There used to be a nice kick in the higher rpm. Â I’m thinking the exhaust is clogged. Â As a laymans test I placed a piece of cardboard over the exhaust pipes, and saw something odd. Â The driver side pipe was coming out faster and warmer than the other. Â It was also spitting out a sooty mist. Â Clogged! Â I’m not shocked as its the original system and was sitting for many years. Â Rust and/or little creatures set their sites on my pipes. Â Shucks, now its time for a new exhaust!
We found out today that my wife Diana is definately carrying our baby. Â The heartbeat was very pronounced. Â I’m happy, humbled, and ready for a new era in my life. Â It makes the M shrink…just a little.
So, my temperature was still rising slowly while driving. Â Only turning on the heater made it go down. Â Even though I had cleaned out the radiator, and worked ok for a few days, the temps rose. Â Everything had been changed, except the rad, until now. Â My wife bought me this Mishimoto radiator for by birthday last week. Â It cost about $230 shipped. Â Not bad considering the OEM piece is about that price. Â The fit was almost perfect. Â The lower support mounts with the rubber stops needed a little grinding, no biggie. Â But here she is! Â Now to see if it still gets warm…
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UPDATE:
I’ve had this radiator on for a couple of weeks now. It’s great! No more overheating issues. The temp is pegged between 1/4 and 1/2, even in L.A. traffic. This piece is recommended!
Note:
Since this radiator is wider than the original, there is a minor hitch in installation. The stock lower supports need to be grinded a bit where they are tacked to the body. Just shave the areas down as flush as possible. Â Not doing so will definately gouge the soft aluminum. Â Shown below:
Check this out. Â I created a spreadsheet that will calculate the numbers for you and give you the BMW part number of the shim needed. Â Please try it out and give feedback.Â